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Shoe Fit
Shoe Fitting is an Art with a Little Bit of Science Thrown In!
The Murray's Family has spent well over 125 years fitting shoes to feet of all shapes and sizes. We have fit nearly all types of foot problems and deformities and accommodated foot orthotics to AFO's. We know that shoes are going to fit differently depending on the foot size, shape, thickness, arch shape, flexibility, use of shoes, and many other reasons. We also know that every shoe today varies in the last that was used to make the shoe. It is also a fact that 95% or more of the shoes sold in America today are made outside of this great country.
This page is devoted to educating you on proper fit and to answering some of your most frequently asked questions.
How Do I Know What Fits Best?
Studies by the Pedorthic Footwear Association show that no two pairs of feet, and no individual's two feet, are exactly alike. Therefore, perfect shoe fit is impossible. As you read this section on the principles of shoe fitting, you will see the complexity of proper fit and why you need to leave the fit of the shoes up to the professionally trained shoe fitter.
Most shoe fitting is done on a two dimensional scale: overall length and ball width. Yet the foot and shoe are three-dimensional objects. Thus, what we have is a shoe of one size, shape, and sectional proportions attempting to fit a foot of many or varying sizes, shapes, and proportions. It is obviously impossible for the shoe to fit and feel the same under all these variables. Now add to these challenges the fit of the foot while in the shoe when at non-weightbearing, weightbearing, walking, under conditions of heat, humidity and moisture, and faulty biomechanics of the leg and foot. As you can see, a perfect fit is next to impossible. Therefore, a professionally trained shoe fitter attempts to fit both feet proportionally. This often requires some adjustments to the shoes to accommodate the intricacies of each foot.
Shoes that fit properly help you do the things you enjoy. They provide comfort and improved performance. They can also keep your feet healthy, which means you can stay as active as you want to be now and in later years. Here are the steps taken at Murray's Shoes in assuring as proportional a fit as possible. It is important to note before starting that whatever size we end up with does not matter at all. What does matter is the fit.
When checking for fit you must always be standing when performing the fit check!
Length Fit
The first step upon standing is to check the overall length of the shoe in relation to the foot inside. There is no scientific space between end of toe and end of shoe, but the rule of thumb is between 3/8" and 5/8." We take into consideration foot expansion upon weightbearing.
Heel to Ball Fit
The next fit check is from heel to the ball of the foot. The big toe joint needs to be at the widest part of the shoe. This is important because the shoe has been designed to bend at this point and this is where the foot also bends. If these two don't match up, then excessive pressures will be placed on both the foot and the shoe. In addition to this, if the ball of the foot doesn't line up, the arch of the foot will not be properly supported by the support in the shoe.
As we check both overall length and heel to ball, we must take into consideration that the foot may be longer in the toes or shorter in the toes in relation to the heel to ball fit. If heel to ball is longer, meaning short toes, try to fit heel to ball or a little shorter if possible. If necessary, fit heel to ball and pad with layered cork to keep toe from toeing up. Try to fit in a short toe last. If overall length is longer, then we must fit the heel to toe. Try to fit in a long toe last so as to get the best fit.
Ball Width Fit
Quite often people either fit or are fitted with the width too tight. The idea is that the upper will stretch. But this does not always happen. When fit this way, not only can the shoe wear out faster due to excessive forces on the upper, but the pressure on the foot can cause a variety of problems, such as corns, metatarsal pain, as well as foot dysfunction.
The ball width fit is challenging in another sense because the foot has three different widths at the ball: foot at rest, foot on weightbearing, and foot under conditions of heat, humidity, and moisture. The shoe, fitted with one width, must provide proper width fit under these conditions. Here again, it is a matter of experience and judgment in selecting the width.
When checking for the width fit, we look for the foot to fit flat in the shoe and to able to spread out naturally inside. We should be able to pull the upper with a slight pinch. There should not be any excess on the little or big toe. Should there be a bunion on the big toe or little toe, going wider quite often will cause the heel to be loose. In this case, we would normally spot stretch these areas in order to take the pressure off the toes and still give us a snug heel fit.
Topline Fit
The top rim of the shoe should fit snugly against the foot. There should be very little or no gapping at the side. The exception to this rule applies to dress flats or heels which will gap on the sides when the foot and shoe flexes at the ball. As we slide our hand down the sides, we also check for the topline rubbing under the ankle. If this occurs, we either look for a shoe with a lower heel counter or put a small heel lift in the shoe to take the pressure off the ankle.
Arch Fit
In good-fitting shoes, the arch area hugs closely to the foot. But sometimes stress or torsion wrinkles will be seen in the upper, on the inner under side of the arch. This could be due to fit of the shoe or due to the foot over pronating. In the event of a dysfunctional foot, one might consider an arch support added to the shoe.
Heel Fit
This is the fit of the heel of the foot into the heel space of the shoe. The fit should be snug in order to stabilize the foot at heel strike when walking. We also need to check the top to make sure that it doesn't bite into the Achilles Tendon, causing a "pump bump." Slippage under certain conditions, such as tight calves, can occur even when the heel appears to be snug.
Throat Fit
The shoes' throat and throatline are the entry point for the foot into the vamp or forepart area. There must be throat room for the waist and instep to move forward during the weightbearing and step action. If the throat is too tight, then heel irritations can occur by being shoved back into the heel. As the foot expands throughout the day in size, the throatline pressure increases. If severe or prolonged enough it can cut off blood circulation to the toes and cause uncomfortable sensations of numbness or tingling in the toes, plus swelling around the waist and instep.
Volume Fit
Shoe fitters traditionally think of fit in terms of linear measurement, overall length, heel to ball, and ball width. The fitter should know beforehand that volume fit is every bit as important as traditional size fit. After all, the fitter is constantly dealing with a wide range of foot types- fleshy, fat, bony, stocky, muscular, spready, etc. Each presents its own challenge to volume fit. And unless the volume or inter-space fit is as accurate as the conventional fitting sites (length, width), we not only don't have a proper fit, but also often cannot expect fully efficient shoe performance and comfort satisfaction.
Walk Test
Finally, after all aspects of the shoe fit have been checked, you should walk around and tell the fitter of any uncomfortable feelings. This will help the fitter to determine if a different size should be tried, adjustment should be made, or whether to bring a pedorthist into the fitting to determine if a dysfunction of the foot is occurring causing the shoe to be uncomfortable.
Foot Orthosis Fit
For the most part, the fitting of a shoe with a foot orthosis is the same as just fitting the shoe to the foot. All the same parameters must be assessed. Some styles and shapes of shoes may work better than others. This is best determined by those professional shoe fitters with training and experience.
Final Comment
As I stated at the beginning, fitting shoes is an ART with a little bit of science thrown in. Because there are more variables than you or I could imagine, the professional shoe fitter must be flexible with the fit so as to reach a proportional fit to the foot. Trained and experienced shoe fitters are the people who should fit your feet and recommend the proper shoe and size.
Why Am I In A Different Size?
Today, unlike 20 years ago, 95% of all shoes sold in America are being made in another country. Whether we like it or not, nearly 40% of the imports are coming from China. The problem presented to us is that there is no standardization in shoe sizing. Therefore, the shoe size you may be fitted with each time may vary. Do not let the size inside the shoe come between you, the fit, and the purchase.
In addition to this fact, a lot of shoes are coming into this country are marked in European metric sizing. The reason for this is that the retailer does not have to buy as many sizes, keeping their inventory down. Though from an inventory standpoint, this is good, it does make fitting shoes a bit more difficult. A professionally trained shoe fitter can assist you best in the proper fitting of these shoes.
Do Socks Change The Size I Wear?
There are a variety of socks. They can be as thin as nylons or as thick as hiking socks. When buying shoes, you must always bring in the type of socks you will be wearing with the shoes you are about to purchase. Should you wish to wear different types of socks, this will most certainly interfere with the fitting. It doesn't mean that it can't be done. In this case, we would need to first fit the shoe with the heaviest sock, then adjust the shoe to accommodate the lighter sock. This is not always the best approach. However, if you insist on wearing different weights of socks, you must be prepared to accept some fit problems.
Do European Shoes Run The Same As My American Size?
No, they do not. As a matter of fact, the difference between a 36 and a 37 is a bit more than an American half size and not quite a full size. This difference, along with the fact that most of these companies only make one width, makes it very difficult to fit as accurately. You may have to accept some fitting limitations along with some adjustments. A professionally trained shoe fitter will explain these issues to you and how the adjustments will need to be done. The fitter, if trustworthy, will also tell you if this could be a problem as you wear the shoes. As more companies convert to the metric sizing, you will have to rely on the professionally trained fitter to fit your foot as proportionally as possible.
Is A Buckle Or Slip On Shoe As Supportive As A Tie?
No, they are not. Ties are always going to be more supportive by the mere fact that the heel fit can be pulled firmer around the foot. This will give the foot better stability and control any sort of foot orthosis. However, fitted properly, the buckle would be far better than the slip-on. We often fit buckles with built-in supports or add foot orthosis and recommend that they not be worn over a prolonged period of time if the customer has a history of foot discomfort.
Will Clogs Give You As Much Support As A Closed Shoe?
No, they will not. Closed shoes, especially ties, are always going to be more supportive, especially if the customer has a history of foot problems. However, there are some clogs that have considerable support features that will be fine for most feet. Always rely on a professionally trained shoe fitter to explain which clog would be best suited for your everyday needs.
Do Shoes Cause Foot Problems?
Depending on whom you speak with in the medical field, some feel that improperly fitted shoes or the wrong shoe last do cause foot problems. I can't dispute this to a certain degree. However, I see a variety of foot problems and find that a great share of them are caused more from a musculoskeletal breakdown. The shoe may aggravate the condition, but isn't the primary cause. With the exception of corns and callouses around the toes, as well as some other conditions, my statement is generally not disputed by most in the medical community.
Why Does This Shoe Feel Uncomfortable Now When It Didn't In The Last Pair?
Over the course of my 40 years in the shoe business, I have only seen a handful of times when a manufacturer changes the last that the shoe is made over. When they do, it can certainly affect the fit on your foot. However, when the last hasn't been changed, we look to a change in your foot in the way of size, width, systemic condition, such as Diabetes or Arthritis, edema due to medication, or systemic changes, or breakdown of the musculoskeletal system. We encourage our customers to return with the shoe so we may evaluate the shoe and fit. We also ask that our customers allow us the opportunity to determine where the problem is so that we can best serve them. If the problem isn't in the shoe, but is in the foot, we will make a recommendation to alleviate the problem.
Why Does My Heel Slip In The Shoe?
There are many reasons why, but for purposes of time I will discuss the four main reasons:
SIZE OF SHOE - For the most part, your feet are designed to be nearly two widths narrower in the heel than in the forefoot. Should you have been fitted with the wrong size and the forefoot is too wide, that would account for the slippage in the heel.
SHOE CONSTRUCTION - Should the sole of the shoe be very stiff, as you go through the walk cycle of heel to toe, the heel of your foot may come up out of the shoe. Should the throat of the shoe be loose, allowing the foot to slide forwards, the heel becomes loose and slippage will occur. Also, if the last of the shoe is less than two widths narrower in the heel, a snug fit will not happen.
FITTED WITH FOOT ORTHOTICS - Most foot orthosis or AFO's will generally lift the foot out of the heel enough so as not to grip the foot. A deeper heel counter will be required.
TIGHT CALVES - The foot as it goes through the walk cycle of heel to toe must be able to lift the forefoot up so that there is a 10% angle between the forefoot and the leg. Should the calf be extra tight, the forefoot will not be able to bend upwards, causing the heel to lift up off the ground too soon in the walk cycle. This will cause heel slippage in your shoe. Stretching the calf will bring the heel down and stop most of the slippage.
I Don't Like Buying Shoes You Have To Adjust. Is This Wrong?
No, you are not wrong. However, I wish it worked that way. As we discussed earlier in this page, we are attempting to fit a shoe of one size, shape, and sectional proportions to feet of many or varying sizes, shapes, and proportions. It is obviously impossible for the shoe to fit and feel the same under all these variables. Now, add to these challenges the additional variables of fit of the foot while in the shoe when at non-weightbearing, weightbearing, walking, under conditions of heat, humidity and moisture, and faulty biomechanics of the leg and foot, and you will see a perfect fit is next to impossible. Therefore, a professionally trained shoe fitter attempts to fit both feet proportionally. This quite often requires some adjustments to the shoes to accommodate the intricacies of each foot. Our goal in our store is to minimize the need for adjustments. However, when necessary, we are able to do what is needed to make the shoe fit as well as possible.
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